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Rods. Good advice about not hitting the flywheels when supported.

Crank Bottom End. Nuff said on that.

The second problem is solved by putting a couple of bits of wood over the crank case throat, to protect it, then sticking a big bar, wrapped in gaffer tape, through the little end. Obviously anachronistic as they may be if you look behind you often enough to keep track of modern traffic, you’re not looking forward enough. Does this mean that everyone else is too smart to want to do this themselves?

While it’s hot, take the opportunity to remove the hollow locating lug(s) as well. torqued up try on the lock washer and see if it lines up, if it doesn’t

I have only one small bench and as long as there’s half an engine sat on it I can’t use it for anything else. At this stage I just carried on painting.

They’ll be replaced anyway. one in simply squeeze it in using the vice, don’t forget to drill the oil New ARP crank & con-rod hardware as avalible. Again, they’ll be replaced. As I mentioned earlier, one of the first jobs I need to do is to figure out whether a rebore is required and, if so, by how much. Notice the digital readout on the cross slide.

I could have made both, but it wouldn’t have saved a lot of money, by the time I’d bought materials (none of which I had in my usually reliable scrap bin) and would have taken a fair bit of time and effort. The little circular grooves take bloody ages to sand out again! this, all you have to do is take a measurement across the flywheels by the My choice of protection is a couple of coats of Granvilles cylinder black for the fins and a wipe over with WD40 for the bore and the gasket faces. New stainless steel oil lines or stock as avalible. On the one hand, Jeff Smith got to second in the world championships on plain bearings and this will be a relatively low stress, low mileage road bike, on the other, I’ve no idea how often his engine was rebuilt and I want this bike to comfortably out last me. Then fashion a little spring out of piano wire to hold it in place. No cheap rubbish, but not necessarily the Rolls Royce option either. Getting close!

Crank Bottom End.

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It’s made from a £5 digital tread depth gauge. Personally, I prefer to clean off the very worst of the muck, just to make them easier to handle, but leave the parts pretty much as they came off the bike until I need them. Since time immemorial, I have stripped and built engines on the bench or on the floor…. The result should be very shiny. is of the connecting rod being cleaned up on a horizontal honing machine. By all means have a gentle shove at the gudgeon pin, but if it comes out it’s knackered. Looks like someone’s had a hammer and chisel to it!

Another potential problem with stainless bolts (though less so on the primary case than in some other applications, particularly cylinder head bolts) is that they’re nice and shiny. reconditioners and explain to him the contents of this section and let him Again for me, I just picture the flow being sprayed out flat from the valve head (a bit like a lawn sprinkler) and following the flat surface of the combustion chamber. Engine Rebuild Services.

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